Afghan Journal: A Cautionary But Hopeful Tale, May 1st, 2008

The British Cemetery in Kabul occupies a dusty, almost forgotten corner of this city. Overgrown with weeds, many of its tombstones have, over too many years been stolen, vandalized or have simply disappeared into the hard earth. Its care is entrusted to a pious Muslim, an octogenerian (if a day) who quietly opens its ancient wooden doors and solemnly escorts visitors along its rough stone paths. The entire lot is about the size of a sandlot baseball field.

It is thought that at least 150 soldiers from Britain's First Afghan War (1838-1842) are buried here; it is known that many other British casualties of the Second Afghan War (1878-1880) rest here as well as some Russians who died during the brutal Soviet occupation of Afghanistan. The British Cemetery may be no better place to reflect on Afghanistan as a metaphoric graveyard of imperial aspirations. This is certainly the story conveyed by the broken stones and weed choked plots.

But the plaques on the walls tell another tale. These contain lists of names, some lists longer than others but all representing men and women killed from a fraction of the countries composing the current International Security Assistance Force (ISAF.) British, Italian, German, Canadian and South African names are found there. The accompanying memorials do not speak of kings, empires of ideologies but instead proclaim more recent sentiments:

"...for Peace and Solidarity Among People...."

"...Who gave their lives helping Afghanistan hold the democratic elections of 4 October 2004 and thereby promote and era of peace for the Afghan people."

"...Who gave their lives in the service of ISAF...."

ISAF casualites are up at least 16% in the last year; presumably, this figure does not include civilians who have died in greater numbers from both "friendly" fire as well as the shift in Taliban tactics from open confrontation to indiscriminate terror. Complaints have also increased that Nato contributes too few troops, that coordination among U.S. and other forces is poor and the perpetual complaint in all wars but certainly true in this one, that too few forces are tasked with too much work. Anxiety is the spirit of our age and there is certainly reason to be anxious about Afghanistan.

Nevertheless, the ISAF remains a functioning force here, something which does not exist in Iraq. And the ISAF, whatever the complaints, does represent worldwide forces of civilization. This is something new.

In a sense, what is at stake in Afghanistan is not the fate of kings, empires or ideologies, but perhaps something of civilization itself. It is for this reason that Afghanistan does not deserve the name, often deservedly given it, of the "forgotten war."

Comments

[Brian Lamar]

Richard,

Good article. I visited the cemetary some time ago. It definetly was a sobering experience. I was in a British Nato unit at the time and the troops were keen on seeing the cemetary. It meant alot to them that I was willing to go out to the cemetary with them.

Brian